Garments



UNITED sTATEs PATENT oEEIoE.

DAvID L. PENDELL, ,or GILBOA, V.NEW York,

MEASURING AND CUTTING crAIuuEnnis.

Specification of Letters Patent No. 3,130, dated June 14, 1843.

, To all whom il may concern.'

Be it known that I, DAVID L. PENDELL, of Gilboa, in the county of Schoharie and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in the Art of Measuring for and Drafting Coats; and I do hereby declare that the following 1s a full, clear, and eXact description of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part ofV this specification, in which- Figure 1, Plate 1, is a front, Fig. 2, Plate 1, a back view of the same, and the diierent drafts on plate 2, the manner of applying the measures in drafting coats.

Explanation of Figs. 1 ancl Q, Plate l,Y

' anrl the manner in which the instrument is used in taking the measure .for coats, of which the anneaecl drawing is a representation-In the first place Vthe person to be measured is requested to stand in his natural position, and with apiece of chalk mark at F, on Fig. 2, or as high thecoat is required in the neck, at the same time at G, on Fig. 2, for length of waist, then fasten the instrument Vsnug around him by means of a leather strapV and pivot, as represented by letter R, Fig. 1, taking care to brace it close up under the arm, and close againstA the front of arm, and horizontally around him by means of the plumb line and ball, see letter Q, Fig. 1. "Then'proceed to take the following measures With a tape inch meas-V ure, to which is attached a piece of brass or other metal, to fit on the pivots:` First, from the pivot at A, Fig. 1, measure under the arm, above the instrument, to center of back at E, on Fig. 2, say 12 inches; second, from the pivot at C, F ig. 1, over the shoulder to top'of backat F, onAFig. 2, say 9,1; inches; third, from the pivot at B, Fig. l, over the shoulder, to top of back at F, on Fig. 2, say 9-41; inches; fourth, from the pivot at B, Fig. 1, over the lower point of shoulder to D, at side seam, on Fig. 2, say 12gL inches; fifth, from the pivot at B, Fig. 1, over .the center of shoulder to E, at center of back in Fig. 2, say 14% inches. Mark at VE, with a piece of chalk, and take the instrument od from the person; then pro-, ceed to take the remaining measures; sixth, measure from the top of back at F, Fig. 2, to E for a depth of scye,say'81}- inches,toGr, for length of waist, say 17 inches, and to H, for length of coat, say 37 inches; seventh, from L, on Fig. 2, to K, for width of back, say

7i inches, to I, for length of sleeve to. elbow, say 22 inches, andf to O, for length of sleeve, sa'y 35 inches, ywound the arm at M, 1 say 11g; inches, at N, say 11% inches and around the hand at O, say 9 inches, for size -of sleeve eighth, from the top'of back'at F, i'

Fig 2, overlthe shoulder to P, Fig. 1,-for

length of waist in front, say 22 inches;

ninth, from the top of back at/F, Fig. 2,.

around the front of arm to G, forbalance of coat at waist, say 2i inches; tenth,

around the breast vand waist, say 35 and 29 'l inches.

E'ooplanationrto draft Plate .Q -Copy of '.70 i

the measure as taken: 1st 1(12), 2nd (9i),

3d (al), eh @2eme (14eme 8517Y Y (7a e2 35 inJ ne 9), sul (2e), i

37), 7th 9th (24),*10th (35 29). n

Explanation to bader-First draw line A for back seam 'bringing itin Waist 4from 4 to 17, 2 inches, apply the 6th measure from 1 to 3, 8% inches; do. to 1-7, 17 inches; do.

k2, square line C, Vand'V measure out from 2 to 6, the 7th measure, 7% inches. VThe -reL mainder of back can be formedto suit the J fashion or fancy. Y Explanation to fone party-Lay the back in whatever `position the fore part can be. f

got out to the best advantage. First, mark side seamV by the back, as far as the depth y of scye at 7. Next draW `line D, from the back across the fore part for depth of scye. -You now apply the first measure from 2` to 3-for front of scye-12 inches. You next ta'ke thevinstrume'nt and place' it as represented on draft, Plate 2, ycare being taken to have the pivot vvat S, touch at Fig. 3, and t0 have the instrument even on line D, then proceed toapply the second measure, from pivot C -to I, 9% inches, and cast curve E.

Apply the 3d measure frompivot B `to I, 9,-1- inches, and cast curve F. Apply the 4th cast curve K. Apply the 5th measure, from pivot B to L,'1L1 inches, and cast curve M. Remove the instrument, `and take the back and placethetop `of itat 1, Wherever curves F, and E cross each other, -letting the depth of s'cye at 3' and17, touch at curves K and p' measure from pivot B -to L12; inches, and A M, while in this position mark shoulder seam, neck gorge, andscye. NeXt apply the ninth measure from I to N, 24 inches, and mark it. Then with the forefinger of the right han-d placed at O, bring the bottom of back at N, to the mark made for the ninth measure, and form side seam by the back.

After getting the length of side seam, apply E, F, M and K, butrit happens in some shapes, that the 5th measure from pivotl B, to letter L, will vary from one half to three fourths of an inch, by being thus much too short or long, according to the form of the persons shoulders. When this is the case7 the top of back at I, vand the depth of scye at 7, must touch theicurves at their respective places, as represented on draft. 'Ihe 5th measure from pivot B, to letter L, is made to touch at curve M, by taking from or adding to the shoulder seam, as the case may be. For instance, if the depth of scye at 3, does not touch on curve M, by its be-l ing one half an inch beyond the curve M, then the curve of shoulder seam on back should be cut i of an inch deeper, and of an inch taken from t-he round of shoulder seam on fore part, as represented by line P and T on draft. If the depth of scye at 3, should fall short of touching on .curve M, then cut the shoulder seam, on fore part a little more rounding. but not to vary it as much as if the depth of scye at 3, should :'go beyond the curve, as the cloth over the shoulder where the 5th measure is taken is generally biasing, and will readily give so as to fit the place. Y

Explanation 250 Hte drafting of skirt-- Line A, represents a line drawn in from'the edge of cloth suiiicient for the plait; draw line B, square with line A. Measure from line A, on line B, to 6', 10 inches. Measure from 6 toV 7, 2 inches and draw line C. The remainder of skirt is formed to fashion or fancy. If the person measured should be of a crooked form, the distance from to 7 should be lessened from to an inch according` to the deformity of the person.

Explanation 250 the drafting 0f sleeve.- Line A represents the edge of cloth, line B the top of cloth; measure from 1 to 2, from L2 to 1-1L inches according to the size of the person measured. Next apply the back at 2, as represented by draft, and measure from 8 to 3, the first measure, 12 inches, lacking 19;,`

inches; continue the measuredown to 9 and apply the 7th measure, 22 inches; continue'` lhalf the scye including the back, Measure from 1 to 4, from 2 to 3 inches, according to the size of the person measured. Sweep from 13 to 4 by the distance from 13 to i V Sweep from 2 to 4, bythe distance from. 1 i

to 3 lacking one inch. The remainder form to measure. For the under side sleeve, measure fromV 13 to 5, the distancefrom'13 to 3 lacking an inch.

Explanation 250 the drafting frode coat s7cz'rz5.-Line A represents the edge of cloth,V line B the. front of skirt, which is carriedV in from the edge of cloth sufcient forthe inturn.- From 1V to 5, isthe length, of the skirt. half of the 10th measure, 14.12 inches Measure from 2 to 3, 3 inches. Sweep from 1V to 4 by 3, `draw line D, for fullness of skirt according to fashion or fancy. The bottom` is got by 'measuring around the same distance from 1 to 5.

Vhat I claim as my invention, and to secure by Letters Patent is,

1. An improvement in the art of cutting by the application of two measures in the manner set forth, in measuringrfor'and drafting coats, and the manner in which desire ssl Measure from 1 to 2 on line A,-one,

a third is taken, viz, with a tape inchY measure.

2. I claim as one of the ytwo measuresV above spoken of, that which is taken from the pivot at B', on Fig. 1, over the lower point of shoulder to side seam at D, Fig. 2, Y

Plate 1, the application lof which may be seen, by referring to Plate 2,-from thevpivot as the other of the two measures` above spoken of, that which is taken from pivot at B, Fig. 1, over the center of shoulder to center of back at E, on Fig. 2, Plate 1, the application of which may be seeny on Plate 2, from pivot B, to Vletter L, in drafting coats. I claim the third measure above spoken of as being taken with a tape inch measure, from the pivot atV A on Fig. 1, under the arm to center of back at E, on Fig. 2, the application of which may be seen by referring to Plate 2 from 2 on back' to 3 in front of scye in drafting.

The two measures and the manner of taking the third as 'above' Y spoken of I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent. v

that the deformity if any exists must of necessity come under the direct influence of the measure. I would respectfully solicit your attention particularly to the point from which the two following measures are taken, viz., from the pivot at B, Fig. l, Plate l, in measuring, and from pivot B, Plate 2, in drafting, for in 'this` is one grand feature of my improvement. Y By referring to Plates l and 2, it will be seen that from this point is the most accurate place of starting to take these measures, more so than any other which can be found, as from this the different variations in shape come under the measure when taken; consequently if the person measured has hollow, very high, low, or good shaped shoulders by adhering to the directions as given above in drafting all diiiiculties will be removed and the coat fitted to the shape of the person. Third, by using a tape inch measure to take the third meas- Y ure above described, viz., from pivot A, Fig.

l, to the center of back at E, Fig. 2, Plate 1, v

the distance is obtained with anv eXaetnessVV not found by using any metallic substance,-

hence if the person measured should have a hollowl or hunch back the exact measure is DAVID L. PENDELL.

Witnesses:

NORTON RAYMOND, THOMAS E. F URO.

- taken and applied in drafting. Fourth, the." 

